2.1 Building

• The building must be dry and free of construction humidity in accordance with Dinesen’s humidity guidelines. Never initiate the finishing until the building is sealed, dry and warm, and the humidity levels are under control.
  
  
• The temperature must be between 18 and 25 °C.
  
  
• The air humidity must be between 35 and 65% RH and must not exceed 50% RH in winter. A hygrometer is available from Dinesen.
  
  
• In addition, always follow Dinesen‘s instructions generally.

 

2.2 Floor

• The floor must be completely smooth and well-sanded. If the floor is not sanded correctly or evenly, it will affect the finish and make cleaning and maintenance more difficult.
  
  
• The moisture content in the wood must not exceed 13-14%. The planks are supplied with a moisture content of 8-10% and must be installed immediately after delivery. If the moisture content is too high, there is a risk that the planks will reject the finish.
  
  
• The surface must be dry and clean and must be vacuumed just before the finishing.

2.3 Equipment and tools

Well-maintained quality tools are a condition for a good result. Below, is an overview of the equipment and tools that may be needed in connection with sanding, finishing and maintenance.

2.3.1 Sanding

Figure 1: Belt sander. Rough sanding – planing the planks

Figure 2: Disc sander. Fine sanding

 

Figure 3: Trio/Quattro sander. Fine sanding

 

Figure 4: Edge sander. Rough sanding – planing the planks

Figure 5: Delta sander. Fine sanding

Figure 6: Random orbit sander. Fine sanding

 

We recommend sanders with a built-in vacuum with a fabric bag.

2.3.2 Finishing and maintenance

Figure 7: Mop for floor washing

Figure 8: Polish roundels for light polishing

Figure 9: Lye mop for applying lye

Figure 10: Mohair roller for applying oil

Figure 11: Cotton cloths for polishing/mopping up oil

Figure 12: Vacuum cleaner for cleaning the floor

2.4 Maintenance
It is very important to consider that the floor needs maintenance to stay beautiful. Floor washing must be done as needed and depending on the use and location of the room. Entrance halls and kitchen floors normally see the heaviest use in the home and therefore require more cleaning than the other rooms of the house.

2.4.1 Guideline for maintenance intervals
Soap-finished floors are normally maintained in the course of normal floor washing. For oil-finished floors, we recommend that you re-apply oil as needed. Floor lacquer is not an indestructible surface, and depending on use, a lacquered floor will therefore have to be refinished at intervals. Keep an eye on the floor to make sure that the lacquer and oil coat is not worn through. Normally, repairs are not possible, and it will therefore be necessary to sand the floor down to the bare wood and refinish it if the top coat is penetrated.

The table below suggests guideline maintenance intervals depending on the degree of use.

• Medium use: bedrooms, living rooms etc.
• Heavier use: shops, showrooms, kitchen/family room, offices, hotels etc.

	Medium use	Heavier use
Soap	Wash once every 2 weeks	Wash about once a week
Oil	Maintenance once a year	Maintenance every 6 months
Lacquer	Maintenance every 2 years	Maintenance once a year

Table 4

We recommend that you keep an eye on the floor continually to make sure that it receives the proper care and maintenance for the actual pattern of use, wear and climate. A soap finished floor requires quite a lot of attention in the beginning but this will diminish gradually with time.

2.4.2 Consequences of inadequate maintenance
Wood is a living material, and a lack of proper maintenance will have certain natural consequences. Among the possible consequences are:

• Shellout and splinters
  With normal use, any wooden floor is subject to mechanical wear. Finishing and ongoing maintenance are therefore essential for protecting the wood. It is particularly important to keep an eye on the wear on Douglas floors, which are not as hard-wearing as hardwood Oak floors. The softer spring wood (the lighter areas in the grain) wears faster than autumn wood (the darker areas), which may cause autumn wood and knots to stand out in relief. This may in turn result in shellout which may lead to splinters and which may damage the floor. Typically, shellouts and splinters can be sanded down if they are spotted in time.
  
  
• Windshake
  Windshake occurs when the wood surface dries too quickly, causing hairline cracks. They only affect the surface and do no damage to the plank. Windshake can occur on well-maintained as well as poorly maintained floors but will be far more pronounced on a poorly maintained floor. The drier the floor is, the greater the likelihood of windshake.
  
  
• Resin secretion (soap-finished floors)
  Resin secretion is a sign of healthy wood and is evident as small dark/black spots. Resin secretion may occur both before and after finishing. Heat from sanding may also bring out the resin spots. Smaller spots can be removed with denatured alcohol on a cloth. Larger areas are scoured with a soap mix (ratio: 0.5 litre of Dinesen Floor Soap to 5 litres of lukewarm water 1:10) and a white scouring pad (for example from 3M). Depending on the size of the spot and the amount of resin, it may be necessary to repeat the treatment 2-3 times. Remember to renew the soap membrane after heavy scrubbing.

Dinesen is happy to offer advice about poorly maintained floors but does not cover any costs associated with this issue.

2.4.3 Dents and scratches
Over time and with use, dents and scratches on a floor are inevitable. But with a few simple precautions, you can reduce the extent considerably. Wooden floors should be protected from dirty footwear. Therefore, there should always a good, large doormat at all entrances. A rug under the dining table may be a sensible solution. Always use felt pads under furniture legs and place a mat underneath your office chair.

Also be careful with sharp objects, pointy stiletto heels and other objects that might scratch and damage the floor. It is also important to vacuum the floor to remove dirt, sand and other potentially harmful particles as soon as possible.

On a Douglas floor, most dents will disappear the next time the floor is washed.
The easiest way to remove larger dents and marks is to quickly pour a little hot water into the holes. The pores of the wood absorb the water and rise again. You may have to repeat the treatment over a few days. This method is both simple and effective. If the wood fibres are broken, however, this treatment is not sufficient, and actual repairs will be required.

Figure 13: Protect the floor

Figure 14: Doormat

Always use felt pads under furniture legs and place a mat underneath your office
chair.

When the floor is installed, about 1 mm difference in level between the individual planks is within acceptable limits. In the first sanding, you should therefore expect to take 0.5-1 mm off the planks. Subsequent sanding will typically remove slightly less wood, depending on the scratches, marks etc. that need to be removed. A solid plank has enough material to be sanded many times.

Careful sanding is necessary for a good result. We therefore recommend that the work be carried out by a certified and experienced floor specialist.

If the floor has been screwed and plugged from above, first use a small belt sander to make the plugs level with the planks. Alternatively, use an edge sander.

Always sand in the direction of the grain. Along edges, in corners, by pipes etc, use an edge sander, for example in combination with a delta sander and a random orbit sander.

The maximum difference in grit sizes between the stages is 20. Make sure that any
scratches from the previous sanding process are removed completely.

Procedure

1. Sand the floor with a belt sander, grit 60-80. Use an edge sander for sanding edges and areas around pipes etc.
   
   
2. Sand the floor with a Trio or a Quattro sander, starting with grit 60-80 and finishing with grit
   100-120. Alternatively, use a belt sander where you finish with grit 100-120 and a disc sander,
   grit 100-120.
   
   
3. Vacuum the floor and any adjacent surfaces (for example window sills) carefully before applying the finish. Vacuuming only, no other cleaning.

Figure 15: Belt sander

 

Figure 16: Disc sander

 

Figure 17: Trio/Quattro sander

 

Figure 18: Edge sander

 

Figure 19: Delta sander

 

Figure 20: Random orbit sander

 

Figure 21: Vacuum

 

After the sanding, the surface must appear smooth and even without any difference in level between the planks. There should be no visible transitions between the sanding of the floor surface and the sanding of edges or corners, and there should be no visible scratches from the sanders.

Cover the floor with thick grey flooring cardboard (500 g/m2) or other diffusion-open material if it is not sanded and finished immediately after the installation.

If construction activity calls for additional protection, cover the floor with Masonite boards, for example, and make sure to tape all the joints.

Please note that the floor surface must be uniformly and fully covered. Otherwise, the effects of light and sun may cause colour differences. We advise against any use of adhesive tape directly on finished or unfinished floors.

Sanding is dusty and noisy. Always use mandatory breathing masks and hearing protection.

 

Video: 
See how a newly installed Dinesen Douglas plank floor is sanded. 
See how a newly installed Dinesen Oak plank floor is sanded.

 

4.1 Dinesen Lye and Floor Soap - Douglas
The finish consists of lye, which gives the wood a light colour and stops the natural patination process, and soap, which forms a protective soap membrane on the surface of the wood that serves as a wearing layer. Dinesen Lye is especially suitable for Dinesen Douglas floors because the mild lye gives the floor a delicate, light appearance.

	Guideline drying times
Lye	6 hours
First soap application	20 minutes
Second soap application	2-4 hours
Total	8-11 hours

Table 5

 

4.1.1 Lye finish

Figure 22: Dinesen Lye Spreading rate: approximately 8 m²/litre

 

Procedure

1. Shake the container thoroughly. It is important to distribute the pigmentation evenly.
   
   
2. Pour the lye into a plastic bucket. Stir it frequently throughout the process.
   
   
3. Apply the lye using a lye mop, brush or roller, always working in the direction of the grain. Use plenty of lye, and draw the excess lye off in the direction of the grain.
   
   
4. Allow the floor to dry for at least 6 hours at 20 °C and 50% RH.
   
   
5. Sand the floor lightly using a disc sander with a sanding screen or sandpaper, grit size 120-150. A slightly used sanding screeen is preferable. Alternatively, grind the sanding screen with a concrete slab or a carborundum stone before use.
   
   

Figure 23: Shake the container

 

Figure 24: Pour

 

Figure 25: Stir frequently

 

Figure 26: Apply

 

Figure 27: Sand lightly

 

After the lye finish, the floor is very delicate because the lye opens the surface of the wood. It should therefore be finished with Dinesen Floor Soap as soon as it is dry.

Video: See how lye is applied to a newly installed or newly sanded Dinesen Douglas plank floor prior to a primary soap finish.

4.1.2 Soap finish
Wash the floor twice with Dinesen Floor Soap Natural or Dinesen Floor Soap White. For a very light surface, use the white soap. Instead of a floor cloth or a mop you may use a clean lye mop.

Figure 28: Dinesen Floor Soap Spreading rate: approximately 16 m²/litre

Procedure

1. Shake the container thoroughly. It is important to distribute the pigmentation and the wax evenly.
   
   
2. For the first wash, dissolve 2.5 litres of Dinesen Floor Soap in 5 litres of lukewarm water. 1:2
   For the second wash, dissolve 1.5 litre of Dinesen Floor Soap in 5 litres of lukewarm water. 1:3
   
   
3. Wash the floor in the direction of the grain.
   
   
4. Wipe the floor with a floor cloth or a mop wrung in soapy water. It is important not to wring the floor cloth or the mop in clean water, as that would remove too much of the soap.
   
   
5. The floor must be left to dry for at least 20 minutes between the first and the second wash. After the second wash, leave the floor to dry for 2-4 hours.
   
   
6. Polish the floor with a green polish roundel. This gives the floor a more uniform surface and forms a good basis for the normal floor washing in the future.

Figure 29: Shake the container

 

Figure 30: Pour

 

Figure 31: Wash

Video: See how soap is applied to a lye-finished Dinesen Douglas plank floor.

 

4.2 Dinesen Lye and Oil - Douglas
The finish consists of lye, which gives the wood a light colour and stops the natural patination process, and oil, which seals the surface and adds a protective wearing layer to the wood. Dinesen lye is especially suitable for Dinesen Douglas floors because the mild lye gives the floor a delicate, light appearance. Finishing Oak with lye is not recommended.

	Guideline drying times
Lye	6 hours
Oil wet-on-wet	24-36 hours
Final oil finish	24-36 hours
Total	78 hours (3 days)

Table 6

4.2.1 Lye finish

Figure 33: Dinesen Lye. Spreading rate: approximately 8 m²/litre

Procedure

1. Shake the container thoroughly. It is important to distribute the pigmentation evenly.
   
   
2. Pour the lye into a plastic bucket. Stir it frequently throughout the process.
   
   
3. Apply the lye using a lye mop, brush or roller, always working in the direction of the grain. Use plenty of lye, and draw the excess lye off in the direction of the grain.
   
   
4. Allow the floor to dry for at least 6 hours at 20 °C and 50% RH.
   
   
5. Sand the floor lightly using a disc sander with a sanding screen or sandpaper, grit size 120-150. A slightly used sanding screeen is preferable. Alternatively, grind the sanding screen with a concrete slab or a carborundum stone before use.

Figure 43: Shake the container

 

Figure 44: Pour

 

Figure 45: Stir frequently

 

Figure 46: Apply

 

Figure 47: Sand lightly

 

After the lye finish, the floor is very delicate because the lye opens the surface of the wood. It should therefore be finished with Dinesen Oil as soon as it is dry.

Video: See how lye is applied to a newly installed or newly sanded Dinesen Douglas plank floor prior to a primary soap finish.

 

4.2.2 Applying oil

Figure 39: Dinesen Oil
Spreading rate: approximately 5-10 m²/litre
in the basic finish and approximately
20-30 m²/litre in the final oil finish

Basic finish

1. Two coats of Dinesen Oil are applied wet-on-wet with a 30-45-minute interval in between. Use a roller to apply the oil. Alternatively, use a polishing machine and a white polish roundel.
   
   The floor should be saturated with oil.
   
   
2. After max. 30-45 minutes, polish the floor with a polishing machine using a cotton cloth. Do not allow excess oil to dry on the surface.
   
   
3. Allow the oil to set for 24-36 hours. During this time, avoid stepping on the floor.

Final oil finish after the basic finish

1. Polish the floor lightly with a polishing machine using a green polish roundel.
   
   
2. Vacuum the floor.
   
   
3. Apply at least one layer of Dinesen Oil with the polishing machine using an oil-soaked cotton cloth, until the floor is saturated.
   
   
4. After max. 30 minutes, polish the floor with a polishing machine using a cotton cloth. Do not allow any excess oil to dry on the surface.
   
   
5. Allow the oil to dry for at least 24-36 hours (at 20 °C and 50% RH). It achieves maximum resistance to wear after 72 hours. If the floor is not fully saturated, repeat the treatment.

Figure 40: Stir

 

Figure 41: Mohair roller

 

Figure 42: Polish

 

Figure 43: Polish lightly (green polish roundel)

 

Figure 44: Vacuum

 

Figure 45: Apply another coat of oil

 

Figure 46: Polish

4.3 Dinesen Oil - Douglas, Oak
A Dinesen Oil finish produces a strong surface. The floor must be dampened before the oil finish to enable sufficient oil saturation and thus optimum protection and distribution of pigments.

	Guideline drying times
Oil wet-on-wet	24-36 hours
Final oil finish	24-36 hours
Total	72 hours (3 days)

Table 7

4.3.1 Applying oil

Figure 47: Dinesen Oil
Spreading rate: approximately 5-10 m²/litre in
the basic finish and approximately
20-30 m²/litre in the final oil finish

Preparation

1. Wipe the floor with a wrung cloth or mop to dampen the surface evenly. This prepares the fibres of the floor to allow the oil to penetrate better.
   
   
2. Let the floor dry before beginning the oil finish.
   
   It is very important to prepare the floor by dampening it before the oil finish is applied. Otherwise, the floor cannot be saturated properly with oil.

Basic finish

1. Two coats of Dinesen Oil are applied wet-on-wet with a 30-45-minute interval in between. Use a roller to apply the oil. Alternatively use a polishing machine and a white polish roundel.
   
   The floor should be saturated with oil.
   
   
2. After max 30-45 minutes, polish the floor with a polishing machine using a cotton cloth. Do not allow any excess oil to dry on the surface.
   
   
3. Allow the oil to set for 24-36 hours. During this time, avoid stepping on the floor.
   
   

Final oil finish after the basic finish

1. Polish the floor lightly with a polishing machine using a green polish roundel.
   
   
2. Vacuum the floor.
   
   
3. Apply at least one layer of Dinesen Oil with the polishing machine using an oil-soaked cotton cloth, until the floor is saturated.
   
   
4. After max 30 minutes, polish the floor with a polishing machine using a cotton cloth. Do not allow any excess oil to dry on the surface.
   
   
5. Allow the oil to dry for at least 24-36 hours (at 20 °C and 50% RH). It achieves maximum resistance to wear after 72 hours. If the floor is not fully saturated, repeat the treatment.

Figure 48: Mop

 

Figure 49: Stir

 

Figure 50: Mohair roller

 

Figure 51: Polish

 

Figure 52: Polish lightly (green polish roundel)

 

Figure 53: Vacuum

 

Figure 54: Apply another coat of oil

 

Figure 55: Polish

Video:
See how oil is applied to a newly installed or newly sanded Dinesen Oak plank floor.
See how oil is applied to a newly installed or newly sanded Dinesen Douglas plank floor.

4.4 Lacquer - Douglas, Oak
The finish consists of both oil and lacquer. To minimize the risk of lacquer binding, which may ruin the planks, we recommend that you use the following lacquer system:
Dinesen Oil and Junckers ProFinish floor lacquer, ultra matt

Lacquer seals the surface completely and is most suitable for Dinesen Oak planks. The lacquer system can also be used for Douglas, but note that dents will not rise after floor washing, and that Douglas floors are generally more susceptible to dents than oak.

Only use 1-component lacquer!

	Guideline drying times
Oil finish	72 hours
Lacquer finish	24 hours
Total	100 hours (4 days)

Table 8

Douglas is finished with Dinesen Lye and Oil, cf. the procedure described in section 4.2.

Oak is finished with Dinesen Oil, cf. the procedure described in section 4.3.

4.4.1 Lacquer finish
It is important to ensure that both the wood and the lacquer have a temperature of at least 10 °C. We recommend a temperature of 20 °C.

Figure 56: Junckers ProFinish floor lacquer, ultra matt Spreading rate: approximately 10 m²/litre

Procedure

1. Apply the first coat of lacquer evenly with a short-haired mohair roller.
   
   
2. Allow the lacquer to dry for at least 4 hours (at 20 °C and 50% RH).
   
   
3. Sand the floor (interim sanding) using a mesh disc or sandpaper, grit 120-150.
   
   
4. Apply another 1-2 coats of lacquer using a short-haired mohair roller. Allow the lacquer to dry for at least 4 hours in between each application. Do not, however, apply more than 2 coats of lacquer per 24 hours.
   
   Do not cover the floor with a damp-proof material or expose it to heavy
   loads, dirt or washing until it has achieved maximum resistance to wear
   after 72 hours.

 

Figure 57: Apply lacquer with short-haired mohair roller

 

Figure 58: Interim sanding

Figure 59: Apply another coat of lacquer using a short-haired mohair roller

The floor can be used cautiously 8 hours after the final coat of lacquer has been applied.

Ensure good ventilation in the room to provide the right conditions for the drying and setting times.

A Dinesen floor requires maintenance to stay beautiful. See section 2.4.1 for guidelines on maintenance intervals depending on the use and thus the amount of wear the floor is subjected to as well as the finish.

It is important to make sure that the oil and lacquer finishes are not worn through. In addition, the following recommendations concerning cleaning and maintenance apply for the three forms of finishing.

5.1 Cleaning and maintaining a soap-finished Dinesen floor
Dinesen Floor Soap protects the wood against dirt and, to some extent, against spills. As long as the soap membrane is intact, the floor will remain beautiful and resistant to wear. If the membrane is breached, the wear will affect the wood directly, and dirt will be able to penetrate into the pores of the wood. Over time,
the wood will come to look dry and depleted. It is therefore important to preserve
the soap membrane and to renew it continually.

To establish a more resistant surface, we recommend that you wash the floor with Dinesen Floor Soap a few times before use.

Protect the floor against dents and scratches, cf. the description in section 2.4.3.

Vacuum the floor as needed to remove sand and other dirt particles quickly. Also always vacuum the floor before washing it. Use the soft setting on the vacuum cleaner head intended for hard floors.

5.1.1 Cleaning and maintenance
Wash the floor as needed depending on the use of the room. The floor must be cleaned and the soap membrane must also be renewed. This means that the floor will need washing even if it is not dirty.

An otherwise clean floor may well have lost its soap membrane, which exposes the wood to wear and depletion. This is prevented if the soap membrane is intact.

When washing the floor it is a good idea to take the opportunity to check the state of the floor. If there are any worn or depleted areas, you may have to adjust the maintenance schedule.

Soap-finished floors can be washed with plenty of soapy water, which is subsequently mopped up.

Figure 60: Dinesen Floor Soap 
*Spreading rate: approximately 70 m²/litre

Procedure

1. Shake the container vigorously. It is important to distribute the pigmentation and the wax evenly.
   
   
2. Mix 0.5 litre of Dinesen Floor Soap with 5 litres of lukewarm water. 1:10 Increase the amount of soap as needed.
   
   
3. Wash the floor in the direction of the grain.
   
   
4. Wash 3-5 m² at a time, and then mop up the soapy water. Wring the mop lightly and draw off any excess liquid in the direction of the grain. It is important to leave a small amount of soapy water to establish and maintain the soapy membrane.

Figure 61: Shake the container

Figure 62: Pour

 

Figure 63: Wash

If the floor is very dirty, it should be washed with a white scrubbing sponge. Dip the sponge in the soapy water, and wash in the direction of the grain. Go back and forth a few times to make sure that the planks are clean. Wash 3-5 m² at a time, then mop up any excess water with a firmly wrung floor cloth or mop. After extra thorough floor washing, the soap membrane should be renewed as described above.

Be careful around the legs of tables and chairs to avoid discolouration from the soap over time. Rugs under furniture are folded up before floor washing and unfolded again when the floor is dry. With care, you may also wash up to the edge of the rug.

The colour of the floor may change considerably depending on whether you use Dinesen Floor Soap White or Dinesen Floor Soap Natural. Both variants provide the same quality protection and make the floor easy to clean.

A well-maintained floor is fairly resistant to spills. Grease, red wine, juice or sauce, for example, should simply be removed immediately with a paper towel or a cloth. For more difficult stains, use the white sponge. You may soak the stain in soapy water for half an hour and then repeat the treatment with the white scrubbing sponge. Do not push harder than necessary, and subsequently wipe the area with the floor cloth.

Video: See the best way to wash a soap finished Dinesen Douglas plank floor.

 

5.2 Cleaning and maintaining an oil-finished Dinesen floor
Dinesen Oil protects the wood from dirt and spills. As long as the oil membrane is intact the floor remains beautiful and resistant to wear. If the membrane is breached, the wear will affect the wood directly. Dirt and spills will be able to penetrate the pores of the wood, and over time, the wood will come to look dry and depleted. It is therefore very important to preserve the oil membrane.

5.2.1 Cleaning

Figure 64: Dinesen Floor Soap
Spreading rate: approximately 250 m²/litre

Procedure

1. Shake the container thoroughly.
   
   
2. Mix 0.1 litre of Dinesen Floor Soap with 5 litres of lukewarm water. 1:50
   
   
3. Wash the floor in the direction of the grain using as little water as possible.
   Use a firmly wrung cloth or mop.
   
   
4. Allow the floor to dry. Do not leave the floor wet.

Figure 65: Shake the container

 

Figure 66: Pour

Figure 67: Wash

 

Video: See the best way to wash an oil finished Dinesen Oak plank floor

5.2.2 Maintenance
As needed, the floor should be treated with Dinesen Oil (the same oil that is used for the basic finish) to re-establish the oil finish and reseal the surface. You may choose to treat particularly worn areas only.

Note that the oil surface should not be allowed to be worn away completely. If this has occurred, you should contact Dinesen for further advice.

Figure 68: Dinesen Oil
Spreading rate: approximately 20-30 m²/litre

Procedure

1. Wash the floor with acetic acid. Use 0.1 litre of acetic acid (32%) with 5 litres of lukewarm water 1:50. Wash the floor in the direction of the grain with a firmly wrung cloth or mop. The solution dries quickly and neutralises any dirt and soap residue. If necessary, repeat the treatment until the floor is completely clean. It is not necessary to follow up with with clean water.
   
   
2. Polish the floor lightly with a polishing machine using a green polish roundel.
   
   
3. Vacuum the floor.
   
   
4. Apply at least one coat of Dinesen Oil using a polishing machine with an oil-soaked cotton cloth until the floor is saturated.
   
   
5. After max 30 minutes, polish the floor with a polishing machine using a cotton cloth. Do not allow any excess oil to dry on the surface.
   
   
6. Allow the oil to dry for at least 24-36 hours (at 20 °C and 50% RH). It achieves maximum resistance to wear after 72 hours.
   
   

You may use the floor cautiously after 24 hours, but we recommend that you wait
72 hours.

When treating large areas, divide the floor into sections of 10-25 m² each. Make sure that the overlapping edges between the treated areas do not dry before the treatment is continued.

 

Figure 69: Polish lightly (green polish roundel)

Figure 70: Vacuum Figure

71: Apply oil

Figure 72: Polish

5.3 Cleaning and maintaining a lacquered Dinesen floor
The lacquer finish seals the surface completely and makes the floor easy to clean. However, if the floor is very worn, it is necessary to re-lacquer it. Scratches in the lacquer allow dirt to penetrate into the plank and do harm to the wood. It is therefore necessary to re-lacquer the floor before the lacquer is worn through.

Vacuum the floor as needed to remove sand and other dirt particles quickly and prevent them from scratching the floor. Always vacuum the floor before washing it. Use the soft setting on the vacuum cleaner head intended for hard floors

5.3.1 Cleaning
Wash the floor as needed depending on the use of the rooms. When washing the floor it is a good idea to take the opportunity to check the state of the floor. If there are any worn or depleted areas, you may have to adjust the maintenance schedule.

Figure 73: Dinesen Floor Soap Spreading rate: approximately 250 m²/litre

Procedure

1. Mix 0.1 litre of Dinesen Floor Soap with 5 litres of lukewarm water. 1:50
   
   
2. Dip the mop or floor cloth in the bucket, and wring it firmly. Wash the floor using as little water as possible.
   
   
3. Wash the floor in the direction of the grain. Mop up excess water with a firmly wrung cloth or mop.
   
   
4. Allow the floor to dry. Do not leave the floor wet, and do not walk on it before it is completely dry.

5.3.2 Re-lacquering

Figure 74: Junckers ProFinish floor lacquer, ultra matt
Spreading rate: approximately 10 m²/litre

Procedure

1. Vacuum the floor thoroughly.
   
   
2. Wash the floor with acetic acid. Use 0.1 litre of acetic acid (32%) with 5 litres of lukewarm water 1:50. Wash the floor in the direction of the grain with a firmly wrung cloth or mop. The solution dries quickly and neutralizes any dirt and soap residue. If necessary, repeat the treatment until the floor is completely clean. It is not necessary to follow up with clean water.
   
   
3. Sand the floor carefully using sandpaper, grit 180-220. Vacuum to remove sanding dust, and wipe the floor with a firmly wrung cloth and clean water. Allow the floor to dry completely.
   
   
4. As a trial, apply two coats of lacquer with a short-haired mohair roller in a couple of small, discreet areas with a 4-hour interval.
   
   
5. Allow the areas to dry for 24 hours, then check that the lacquer adheres by scraping the trial areas lightly with the edge of a coin.
   
   
6. If the adhesion is good, and the surface looks good, lacquer the whole floor.
   
   
7. If the result is not satisfactory, machine-sand the floor down to the bare wood, cf. the procedure described in paragraph 3. Then apply a new lacquer system, cf. the procedure described in section 4.4.
   
   
8. Lacquering is carried out as described in section 4.4.1.

Figure 75: Vacuum

76: Wash Figure

77: Sand the floor

5.4 Using a floor-washing machine
Floor-washing machines can be used on finished Dinesen floors. Floor-washing machines are best suited for oil-finished and lacquered floors. A soap-finished floor requires special precautions.

The floor-washing machine should be able to wash and dry (absorption) and have a rotating washing head (disc), for example a type 451 or 755 from Nilfisk Advance or a Genie from FIMAP. Attach a soft brush for wooden floors on the washing head and use a soapy mix of 0.5 litre of Dinesen Floor Soap to 5 litres of lukewarm water 1:10. Wash the floor in the direction of the grain.

We recommend washing soap-finished floors manually. If a floor-washing machine is used, always combine the cleaning with damp-mopping to ensure sufficient cleaning and re-establishing of the soap membrane.

The clean floor is damp-mopped as needed (for example after every 3rd floor-washing) with a mop or a cloth wrung in a soapy mix consisting of 0.5-1 litre of Dinesen Floor Soap to 5 litres of lukewarm water 1:10/1:5.

Damp-mop in the direction of the grain. After damp-mopping, the floor surface should be left damp but not wet. If the soap membrane is not re-established, the floor will be depleted and the wear will increase.

Video:
See how to use a floor washing machine on a Dinesen Oak plank floor.
See how to use a floor washing machine on a Dinesen Douglas plank floor.

The first condition for a successful surface finishing is good sanding. Errors and shortcomings in sanding are carried on to the following finishes and will also affect the end-result.

We strongly recommend that you first carry out the finishing on a trial surface or at least on some cut-off wood. As mentioned above, sanding has a major influence on the resulting colour tone, and it is important to check the colour etc. before finishing the entire floor.

6.1 Lye finish

Lye
Using the wrong lye may discolour the floor. Depending on the lye type and its aggressiveness, the end-result may be a greenish or reddish appearance.


6.2 Oil finish

Pre-dampening
It is very important to pre-dampen oak planks before applying an oil finish to ensure that the wood is evenly damp before the finishing process. If the dampening is uneven, or if the floor is not pre-dampened at all, it will not be possible to achieve optimal saturation. Proper pre-dampening is especially important when using a colour oil to ensure that the pigmentation is distributed evenly. Otherwise, there is a risk that the colour will not turn out as expected or that there will be considerable variation across the floor surface.

Insufficient amount of oil on oak
If oak planks are not sufficiently saturated with oil there is a risk of tannin spots, which appear as dark blemishes or stains on the floor.

If the wood is not sufficiently saturated with oil, there may be white or light areas on the surface. These stains typically appear as a result of small water spills.

Uneven oil coat
Appears as pools of oil and typically occurs when excess oil has not been removed in connection with the finishing process.

Lacquer
When applying a lacquer finish, it is especially important to ensure that the floor is sufficiently saturated with oil, as there is otherwise a risk of lacquer bind. In oak, there is also a risk of tannin stains.

6.3 Miscellaneous
Adhesive tape
We advice against any use of adhesive tape directly on finished or unfinished floors.

Metal buckets
Finishing products in metal buckets/tins need to be stirred. Shaking is not enough.